War was a not-so-remote possibility in late January when
my husband, playwright and photographer George Sapio, and I
were given the opportunity of a lifetime -- to visit Iraq on
a peace and humanitarian mission. As this magazine goes to
press the U.S. invasion has begun. But we jumped at the chance
to visit this country, which had been dominating the news for
months, and to speak directly to its people, gaining some insight
into their lives. On the delegation with us would be 10 other
Americans from various parts of the country.
Just days before we set out, George and I put out a call to
friends and colleagues in Ithaca for medicines, vitamins, health
care items, and photos and cards that we could take to the
people of Iraq. Within 96 hours we had accumulated 116 pounds
of donations, all from private individuals on campus and in
the Ithaca area -- way more, it would turn out, than our fellow
travelers had collected in their home cities of New York, Dallas,
Washington, and the suburbs of Los Angeles.
Arriving in Baghdad after a 44-hour journey, we were not sure
what to expect. We were amazed to find that during our stay
every single person welcomed us and treated us with kindness,
generosity, and gratitude for our willingness to be in Iraq
at this time. There was not a single instance of hostility
or anger. |

George and I were captivated by the little girl at front as she
played by herself in the rubble-strewn Baghdad street in front
of her family home. Her father came out to check on her, and
George asked if he could take the little girl's photo. The father
smiled and said yes, and went to get his other children for a
group pose. They then invited us in for conversation and tea
and to meet the women of the house. He works as a carpenter,
making about US $4 a month, and supports the three children,
his two wives, and his elderly mother. |